We wanted to go to Morocco for so many reasons. For Laura, North Africa is a place that has long been a dream destination. She has a love for belly dance, Arabic music, and Islamic art that goes way back to her teens, and has a deep appreciation of Moroccan culture specifically – the food, the history, the aesthetic, the list goes on. Javier having lived in Southern Spain eons ago has had his fair dose of North African influence and shares a lot of this love as well, so it was an easy choice to come here after Europe. Neither of us had been to any countries in this region, or in the Middle East, so this would be a completely new experience for both of us.
As we started planning how we were going to get from Italy to Morocco we were excited to learn that there was a ferry direct from Genoa, Italy which meant that we could spend more time there before leaving Europe. We originally thought we would need to go to southern France or Spain, but the Italian ferry company Grand Navi Veloci (GNV) has a number of ferries that connect the two continents. Although we would have loved to see more of France (we briefly visited at the start of the Camino) or southern Spain, we felt that there was so much we wanted to see in Italy that it would be better to save the other spots for another time. We spent two days on the ferry from Genoa, Italy to Tangier, Morocco and it was a ride like no other. Unlike previous overnight ferries where we slept wherever we could, we opted for a small internal cabin for the two day haul. So basically it was like a mini cruise! Except without all the fun amenities! We did, however, eat some surprisingly decent food and there were some things going on like film showings (albeit in French and Arabic). We mostly slept, ate, talked, read, and watched the sea go by. The slow pace of ferry travel and the fact that it took two days allowed us to reflect on all the adventures we’d had in Europe.
We arrived in Tangier on the northwest Mediterranean coast. We had already become acclimated to hearing Arabic on the ferry and luckily a lot of folks in northern Morocco speak Spanish, so we were pretty comfortable getting around when we disembarked. Granted, the absolute first social encounter on the bus to the terminal consisted of a VERY heated argument in VERY loud Arabic among some passengers on the shuttle. We weren’t sure if fists were going to start flying between the two parties but when the shouting suddenly turned into hysterical laughter among everyone (something we would see more than once) we relaxed a bit and figured it was just par for the new course. Eventually a cab deposited us in Tangier (note to self, there are TWO ports in Tangier) and we made our way to the hotel with the help of a teenage kid that was eager to show us the way. There are always people asking to be your paid guide wherever you go, but a lot of the time people are just friendly and helpful.
For the next four days we got used to being in Morocco and enjoyed our time in Tangier walking around the medina and along the beach. We stayed in Hotel Continental, a classic place with a storied history in a gorgeous old building near the fishing port. We had read that the hotel can be hit or miss, but we absolutely loved it and had an amazing time there. The design of the place, the dizzying geometric tiles everywhere, the incredible bazaar, were all exactly what you dream about when you think of Morocco. And the food at the restaurant was delicious as well. It was the best possible place for us to settle into our Moroccan travels. One day we took a taxi ride to Cape Spartel where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic and also visited the cave where Hercules is said to have rested after one of his 12 labors (true story). Another day we took a train to Asilah, which is a super chill little beach town on the Atlantic coast with a beautifully artistic medina. We ate a ton of couscous and chicken with the local answer to salsa, HARISSA (we have since become Harissa experts). We both agree however that the biggest change from our European life was (and continues to be) the lack of alcohol. We heard you could find it if you really want to, but we have not seen a drop anywhere and are pretty cool with getting a little break after all that Italian wine. Still, cracking open a cold brewski after a long day of sight-seeing is something we’re both looking forward to. Someday.
For certain, it took some getting used to the vibe in Tangier. The crowds, the sights, the smells, the disproportionate ratio of men to women in public spaces, and the hard sell every time you pass a shop. On that last point it actually wasn’t as hardcore as we had read. Some Moroccans hilariously told Javi he looked local, and we stopped carrying our day packs, so maybe that’s why we really didn’t get hassled too much when we walked around. We had read online and in our guidebook that it’s better to be with a guide or a group tour to avoid getting overwhelmed, but honestly the folks in the tour groups were getting hassled to buy stuff way more than any single or couple travelers. So we got a pass, and are grateful that it hasn’t been a distraction from our enjoyment of this place (which has been the case for some travelers here).
After Tangier we headed to Tetouan, a less touristed city with a big art school. We visited the lovely art museum and enjoyed the very local and lived-in feel of the place. Getting from place to place by train or bus has been super easy and inexpensive. Everything is (pretty much) on time and comfortable, and an hour train or bus ride costs about 5 bucks for both of us. So far so good!
Next on the list is further into the Rif mountains to the Blue Pearl – Chefchaouen! To be continued…
Maroc
